‘Dos Chefs and Tres Papas’ go wild with rum

April 18, 2024 | 12:00am

We’re at Lampara in Poblacion on a Saturday night, catching glimpses of two British chefs in the back kitchen: Andrew Clarke (of London’s Acme Fire Cult) and Ferdinand “Budgie” Montoya (of Apoy and Sarap UK). The bar is surrounded with Don Papa Rum bottles, and the menu features three cocktails tonight — Ok! Don P. (with hints of sampaloc, calamansi and ancho chile), the Donhattan (a cacao-infused libation with sweet vermouth in a cocktail glass) and Papa Dessert (a delicious orgeat-flavored drink fueled with butter-washed Don Papa Masskara) — for our initial intake.

At a central table is a crew of British bartenders, hearty and happy, ready to take over the downstairs bar OTO later with another roster of Don Papa cocktail creations.

This is all part of Don Papa’s “Chefs and Shakers” series, where foreign chefs and award-winning mixologists are invited to Negros to learn about the rum maker’s home turf in Sugarlandia. Phase two is a night out in Makati, transforming a local kitchen with their take on local ingredients. It’s a great way for the European market to learn about, and get inspired by, a homegrown local liquor business that’s now global: last year, Don Papa was acquired by huge UK-based firm Diageo for €260 million, not only serving its growing markets in Europe, but putting yet another Filipino liquor brand on the world map.

Also at our table is Monica Garcia, one of the co-founders of Don Papa Rum (along with husband Andrew and Stephen Carroll back in 2012). We’re familiar with Don Papa, not only for its exceptional product, but because of its art residencies tied with Art Fair PH, such as Orange Project. Unique branding, bottling and art presence has always been a part of Don Papa’s DNA, Monica says. It comes from focusing on what makes the Philippines different. “When you live here a long time, you kind of forget” how unique the place is, she says. Back in Negros, they’ve been hosting a series of European guests for weeklong immersion in the Don Papa experience. Tonight’s dinner is an offspring of that.

Chef Montoya opens with a soft lapu-lapu fillet sliced and mixed with some soahe (little shrimp), then spiced with a bit of mustasa in spicy gata: the coconut adds a creamy, curry-like base for the mustard flavors to mingle and emerge. “My restaurants have always been sort of a nod to Filipino cooking with a British or European touch,” Montoya says.

Chef Clarke follows with the main course, inspired by local markets where he bought up some cauliflower, longganisa and pork. Cooking over fire is his specialty (“I’ve made use of the little grill in the kitchen and tried not to burn the place down!”), so he serves a roast pork fish glazed with a tare (made with soy sauce, pork sauce and Don Papa rum), dressed with local clams with fragrant chili oil, ginger and lemongrass.  A spoonful of tamarind and prune ketchup adds zest.

Next to it is a caramelized cauliflower purée with roasted cauliflower florets and a salsa matcha. Whipped up like a hummus, this has nice, earthy flavors and texture contrasts — great with a heaping bowl of rice.

Clarke also serves a chargrilled Napa-style cabbage, dressed with a flavorful longganisa vinaigrette (“basically the sausages cooked out really nice and dry, then using the oil for a classic Dijon vinaigrette”). “Just embracing the good flavors that you guys have,” chef Clarke says.

Chef Montoya finishes with another Filipino-inspired dish — a slice of cassava cheesecake served with a Don Papa caramel sauce. “It takes a little bit of my mom’s recipe in the ‘70s for cassava cake, and gives it a sort of Basque-style burnt cheesecake touch.” A rich, satisfying ending to a fast-and-furious trio of courses.

Later, downstairs at OTO, the “Tres Papas” — UK’s world-class competition winner Matt Arnold, Hoot The Redeemer’s award-winning Carrie Smith, as well as Don Papa Rum’s UK Brand Ambassador Callum Whitehead — unveiled a special drinks menu: we got crazy with a Wimbledon Blitz (Don Papa with strawberry, lemon, soda water chased with a packet of Fizz Wiz pop rock candy); tried the Papa Pornstar (served with passionfruit and lime); sipped the Guinness and caramel Short & Stout, and finished with the Mango, a prize-winning concoction of rum, mango and coconut water in a tall glass.

“We’ve had this opportunity with Don Papa to use our platform to actually shed light on the Philippines,” says Monica. “It’s important to present something to the world, talk to people about our culture, our people and show the best of the Philippines — show them a different side. Because, you know what? It’s like no other place in Southeast Asia.”

Another night out with Don Papa proves that.

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Find Don Papa Rum at partner retailers S&R, Kultura, Boozy.ph, and more.