Bowled over by ‘Khao Soi’

April 18, 2024 | 12:00am

Fresh veggies, comforting meat dishes, herb-rich dips and intoxicating curries. That’s what diners can expect at Conrad Manila’s Legendary Chefs Series, which is ongoing until April 30 at Brasserie on 3, Conrad Manila’s all-day dining buffet restaurant.

Featuring the bold and flavorful taste of northern Thailand, chef Akkawin “Pun” Pitrachart of Waldorf Astoria Bangkok temporarily transports diners back to the streets of beautiful Chiang Mai with his delectable creations.

“We are delighted to welcome chef Pun to Brasserie on 3, where he will orchestrate an extraordinary culinary experience for our esteemed guests,” enthuses Fabio Berto, general manager of Conrad Manila, during the launch. “This collaboration not only brings the rich and vibrant flavors of Thailand to Manila, but also showcases the exceptional talent of chef Pun.”

Berto was joined by SM Hotels and Conventions Corp. (SMHCC) president Elizabeth Sy, and Thai Ambassador Tull Traisorat.

North Thailand’s culinary heritage draws on influences from Burma, Laos and southern China. And yes, the cuisine is a quaintly spicy world of its own.

I was bowled over by chef Pitrachart’s khao soi, the deliciously rich, creamy, and mildly spiced yellow curry noodle dish with braised chicken. Topped with a tangle of nest-like crunchy fried noodles, it is best enjoyed with sliced shallots, chili paste and lime wedges for a refreshing zing.

“It’s a dish concocted by Chinese-Muslims living in northern Thailand,” explains chef Pun. “But instead of chicken, the Muslims use lamb.”

Another classic northern Thai dish is sai-ua, a spicy grilled sausage that can be eaten as a snack or with sticky rice. Bu it’s equally delish as an hors d’oeuvre downed with beer, whisky or wine. The stir-fried minced pork with fiery bird’s-eye chili and fragrant hot basil is a another must-try as well. Again, it can be enjoyed as a viand or “pulutan.”

The highlight is the succulent nuea yang jim jaw  (hai-style roasted beef,) which lords it over the Thai buffet counter. Right beside it is buckets of steamed crayfish and shrimps sitting on ice served with a delicious, herb-infused dipping sauce.

Beef lovers are in for a treat as chef Pitrachart whips up Braised Beef in Massaman Curry, the tender meat simmered in a richly spiced, aromatic coconut broth.

A delectable Thai feast isn’t complete without tom yum goong. The moderate heat of the broth, balanced by citrusy flavors, did not disappoint. The shrimp is perfectly cooked! The same sweet-and-sour flavor is present in the pla tod rad sauce sam-rod (deep-fried seabass with sweet and sour sauce.

Each of the featured dishes carries a delicate balance of salty, sweet, sour and spicy, which is what Thai flavors are known for.

For me, the beauty of a filling Thai meal is watching the various elements come together — creating a delicious union of unexpected flavors and ingredients.

Get to know the commander-in-chef

Chef Pun has been the chef de cuisine at Waldorf Astoria Bangkok’s Thai restaurant, Front Room, since July 2023. With a bachelor’s degree in Hotel and Tourism Management at Thailand’s Silpakorn University International College, he embarked on his culinary journey through a seven-month internship at Hotel Maison Pic in Valence (awarded three Michelin stars) and Restaurant L’Oasis in Mandelieu (awarded two Michelin stars) in France as part of a student-exchange program.

Post-graduation, chef Pun worked as a commis at InterContinental Hotel Bangkok. Eager to broaden his expertise, he seized opportunities at renowned five-star hotels in the country, including The House on Sathorn at W Hotel and Rosewood Bangkok. With a comprehensive understanding of fundamental cooking techniques spanning Western to Asian cuisine and a deep pride in his Thai heritage, chef Pun found his calling at Front Room.

“As a Thai, I have always held a keen interest in fine-dining Thai cuisine,” he shares. “The beauty of Thai culinary art, characterized by its diverse ingredients and the intricate balance of flavors, continues to challenge and inspire me.”

When asked if he had to adjust the spiciness level of the dishes for Filipino diners, chef Pun hastily replied: “Yes, but not much. Unlike French diners (who can’t take the heat), Filipinos, just like Thais, love spicy dishes.”

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Enjoy Brasserie on 3’s Thai-inspired buffet special at P2,337.50 net per person for lunch (11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.) and P2,592.50 net per person for dinner (6 to 10 p.m.) daily until April 30.

For reservations, call 8833-9999, email conradmanila@conradhotels.com or visit https://eatdrinkhilton.com/brasserie-on-3-conrad-manila/.